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Whenever assembling a list of London’s top eateries, one might foresee familiar high-end venues. However, situated prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a far-flung area of northern London.

A Shocking Accolade

The little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the owners utterly astonished.

“I’m utterly shocked,” says a family member, alluding to his family’s dedication that culminated in their small place securing such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its original feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the fare, and this restaurant certainly excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for below £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

A Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am really proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning outside its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this gastronomic honour.